September 8, 2008
Bon Dia (Good Day),
We rented a scooter and toured Bonaire from one end to the other. Seven or eight hours on a little 100 CC Yamaha was about all our butts could take. The island is about 19 miles long and 5 miles wide, at it's widest point and not what we expected. It's almost like being in the desert, with it's low bush, cactus and rocky outcrops. It is, however, surrounded by real water, not a mirage. We drove through a nature reserve and the big attraction there was Flamingos! It was the first time we had ever seen them in the wild. Got lots of pics! Aside from the main town, Kralendijk, there is only one other town, Rincon, in the middle of the island which is slightly hilly. It was a sleepy little town with donkeys and goats wandering freely. We stopped to give our butts a break and enjoy a beer at a roadside cafe. Aside from the group of guys shooting the bull at the bar, we saw only two other people out and about and this was the middle of the day, a Saturday! Along the north shore there were some ancient Indian sites with cave writing and more donkeys and goats. Then we came to a huge shallow bay, Luc, where wind surfing is all the rage. Unfortunately the wind was mild so the few wind surfers out there were barely moving. Further along we came to a rocky shoreline covered with driftwood and other stuff from the ocean. People had erected sculptures of wood and junk along the beach so of course we stopped and built one ourselves. With a bunch of lonely shoes hanging on the driftwood nubs and the base filled in with green plastic soda bottles it was very colorful. One end of the island is covered by huge salt ponds and there are hills of salt waiting to be loaded onto ships that come in one after the other. Including a leisurely lunch at our favorite place in Kralendijk, we circumnavigated the whole island and still had time to stop and fill the tank, pick up some groceries and turn the scooter in an hour early. You'll be surprised when you see the pictures, if you've not been here before. It's a beautiful island, but not what one imagines when thinking of the Caribbean. We could easily see ourselves retiring to this place!
After six relaxing days in Bonaire we decided to let go of the mooring and sail off into the Caraibische Zee. That's what the Dutch call it! We had a nice sail over to Curacao, just 25 or 30 miles further west. We are now anchored in Spanish Waters.
It's a huge, land locked bay and we had to come in through a long pass to enter. Not too tricky, but it had it's moments. There are quite a few boats here, a lot from the Netherlands. It's like a home away from home for the Dutch. We've also noticed as we come further west into the Caribbean, more and more boats are from Texas. The water is not as crystal clear but still good for swimming, if just a bit warm. The bay is surrounded by homes and yacht clubs so you have to go pretty far to reach stores and things. Fortunately, they have a pretty good public transportation system and one of the large grocery stores even has a free bus with pick up at the marina and it runs every day. Makes it easy to drop off your money to them. It's so calm in here that we are going to take advantage of the dry weather and free anchorage to catch up on some varnishing.
One very positive note. With a tip from some friends we met up with in Bonaire, we learned about a cruisers net in Curacao. The first morning after our arrival we listened in and heard a woman announce that they had an 8HP Yamaha motor for sale. Exactly what we needed. We jumped right on it and not only was it a good deal, but they even delivered it to our boat and helped put it on our dingy. Rowing would have really been a problem here in this huge anchorage. It's so nice to have power again!
Take care of yourselves and we'll be in touch soon,
Jim and Barb
S/V SpanishStroll
Bonaire
August 28, 2008
Bon Dia (Good Day),
Com Bie? That's "how are you?" in "Bonairese". What a long strange trip it's been.
We were reluctant to have Tres and Todd come to visit in Venezuela after our negative experiences, but plane reservations had been made and friends on other boats in Ilsa Margarita convinced us that we were just experiencing an unusual spate of thievery and debauchery ... so after Lenny and Sue, our new friends on S/V Windance, loaned us a little 2 HP motor so we could dingy in and out, we gave the kids the go ahead. Turned out to be an adventure that we'll all remember for a long time.
Their flight from Barcelona arrived three hours late. Then we took a wild taxi ride through Porlarmar and down to the water front. The road turns into dirt, so the taxi driver was happy to let us off about 200 yards from Juan's Marina where our dingy was docked. As we carefully picked our way through the rocks and bushes the lights in that part of town, by the waterfront, went out and thankfully Todd had a flashlight. We walked down the dock and were glad to see that our dingy and motor were still there. We loaded up the luggage and slowly motored out to the Spanish Stroll. After a long day for them, and for us too, we sat in the cockpit and tried to catch up on the last year and a half while we nearly polished off a case of ice cold Polar beers....our Canadian son-in-law had arrived!
We spent a lot of time visiting on board. Everyone was happy to dive in and take a swim anytime of day. Siesta was spent reading books and napping. It took most of the mornings to get breakfast and get going but we still managed to do some exploring. Every time we went anywhere it was a half mile walk to the bus stop (usually a ice cold beer on the way) and then a bus ride into town. Sometimes we had seats on the bus and other times we stood in the aisle or doorway till we got to Quatro de Mayo, the main street downtown in Porlormar. Our first adventure was to an upscale men's clothing store where we exchanged our U.S. dollars for Bolivars at a very good rate (black market). Now that's an adventure!
One day we took the bus downtown and then after a few cold beers at the "bus stop" we rode to Playa Yaque, a popular beach and tourist spot. Lunch and hanging out on the beach and swimming...it was great fun! Another day we took the bus to Conerjeros Mercado (Rabbit Market) where we had a "breakfast" of arepas (corn type cakes stuffed with carne) and then walked up and down about 30 aisles of booth after booth of goods. The more we saw, the more we realized that everyone was selling the same stuff! Still great fun! Same day we went to a very upscale shopping center called Simbal where we couldn't afford to shop at the exclusive stores but splurged on McDonald's!
The first Monday of their visit they joined us on board the yacht, Windancer, for a birthday party dinner. Another time, we enjoyed a "cruisers" music night at the Rum Bar on shore and listened as Keith, the musician from S/V Nomad, sang Hotel California in their honor. We spent a couple of movie nights on board. It's cool to pull the sea hood back and put the computer on top and sit in the cockpit to watch a movie. With speakers at the rear of the cockpit, it's almost like surround sound. We watched our favorites: Animal, Scary Movie III and of course Captain Ron!
They took the free bus with us down to Siga, a huge super market and mall where we stocked up on unfamiliar foods and also stuff like Doritos, Pepsi and more Polar beer. Happy Hour at Juan's, lunch at the Peruvian Restaurant, plenty of good dinners and times on board. All in all it was a excellent visit and we are so glad they came! Our last day, we had some Polars and papas fritas at the Rum Bar then it was a taxi ride back to the Aeropuerto. A ten day visit, over way too soon.
After they left we filled our diesel tank and jerry cans, recharged our propane tanks, filled our water tanks and replenished our stores. Said our good byes to some excellent new friends and sailed off into the thunderstorms. Thunderbolts and lightening very, very frightening! Yes we had some exciting weather along the way. An uneventful (no pirates or hurricanes!) three day sail and we have once again started our next adventure on the island of Bonaire.
Bonaire! It puts the B in the A B C islands of the Netherlands Antilles. Approximately 12 degrees North and 68 degrees West. What a nice place. It's a Marine Park so you can't anchor, but there are good moorings right off the town of Kralendijk (pronounced crawl-n-day). It's such a contrast to Venezuela. So clean and safe! We are on a mooring about 100 yards off of a very nice dingy dock, which makes it easy for us to row to shore (seeing as we lost our dingy motor!). The water is crystal clear, aqua marine and a comfortable temp. Swimming is a pleasure. There's a one way street that runs along the waterfront and it's definitely a tourist spot. Our first day here and several people from other boats came by to introduce themselves and make sure we knew where everything was, like customs and immigration and the grocery store. There's another Southern Cross 31 here and the owner, Terry, is very nice. We enjoyed talking to him about our boats tonight at happy hour. There are stores with goods we recognize and unfortunately, prices are familiarly U.S. like too! We are on our way to Curacao, which is only twenty-six miles west, but may be waylaid for a while by this delightful island.
Take care of yourselves and we'll be in touch soon,Bonaire! It puts the B in the A B C islands of the Netherlands Antilles. Approximately 12 degrees North and 68 degrees West. What a nice place. It's a Marine Park so you can't anchor, but there are good moorings right off the town of Kralendijk (pronounced crawl-n-day). It's such a contrast to Venezuela. So clean and safe! We are on a mooring about 100 yards off of a very nice dingy dock, which makes it easy for us to row to shore (seeing as we lost our dingy motor!). The water is crystal clear, aqua marine and a comfortable temp. Swimming is a pleasure. There's a one way street that runs along the waterfront and it's definitely a tourist spot. Our first day here and several people from other boats came by to introduce themselves and make sure we knew where everything was, like customs and immigration and the grocery store. There's another Southern Cross 31 here and the owner, Terry, is very nice. We enjoyed talking to him about our boats tonight at happy hour. There are stores with goods we recognize and unfortunately, prices are familiarly U.S. like too! We are on our way to Curacao, which is only twenty-six miles west, but may be waylaid for a while by this delightful island.
Jim and Barb
S/V SpanishStroll
Caribbean
August 17, 2008
Hello Everyone,
Sailing to many beautiful places and meeting friendly people we have always enjoyed writing about our adventures but the Caribbean had us stumped. We always try to look at the positive side of things and have managed to find the good in most places. The following text is an article that we wrote for a local paper, the Caribbean Compass. The article will be published in an upcoming edition. The simplest thing to do would have been to forget it but we came to feel some things needed to be said.
We apologize for being a wet blanket but this was our Caribbean experience so far and the most difficult piece we've written.
We have since had a really great experience, Tres and Todd did come for a visit and we all had a wonderful time. Soon as we can, we'll send along another email about our adventures.
Take care of yourselves and we'll be in touch soon,
Jim and Barb
S/V SpanishStroll
A Fool's Paradise
by Jim McConn
Having logged over thirty thousand miles in our thirty-one foot Southern Cross, the Spanish Stroll, we have finally arrived in paradise. Or have we? Five years into a boat ride that appears to have evolved into a circumnavigation Barb and I are in the Caribbean. The word itself has always conjured up visions of beautiful white beaches shaded by coconut trees on pristine little islands. With water the color of a Bombay gin bottle, the soft sounds of steel drums and us lounging in hammocks, it also seemed as far away as the moon.
A very peaceful but long sixty five day passage from South Africa brought us to Tobago. We'd had plenty of time to study the Doyle guide and were ready for the great food, pan music and rum shacks.
Making landfall at Scarborough we checked in and spent a week cleaning up and replenishing the Spanish Stroll. Scarborough was, as expected, a big town and a bit rough around the edges but nothing could have dampened our spirits at that time. When ready to see more of the island and checking in with Customs, as instructed, we were surprised to be told we would need to return and get permission before moving again.
Okay, not having to bring the boat we could take the bus or a cab. It would give us a chance to see the interior of the island! We pulled the anchor and sailed the ten miles to Store Bay at the east end. The blaring rap music in place of the steel drums we'd so looked forward to was another sign that things were not going to be as expected. No problem, we can't expect people to play the same music forever just in case we might drop by and want to hear it.
The local people, who on first impression didn't seem very friendly, turned out to be just a bit reserved. If we took the initiative by starting a conversation they were not only friendly but quite helpful. Just the normal process of getting familiar. We also became friends with several couples on boats.
Things were looking up until we returned to Scarborough by bus and requested permission to sail to Charlottesville. We were asked how long it would take us. Although located at the north east corner of the island, only twenty-two miles away, we were expecting a tough beat straight into the trades. Having read in the Doyle guide about the many beautiful bays along the way with good anchorages and great food waiting on shore we planned to break it into short hops. Considering the time it takes to get to know the people in a new place and that we had been issued a three month cruising permit I thought one month was reasonable but only asked for one week.
Our request was out of the question. The senior official said with disgust “You just want to stop and find bars to drink beer!”. Stunned, we asked what a reasonable time frame might be. He responded “one day” adding that one stop of one to two hours would be reasonable but that we would have to explain any delay on our arrival in Charlottesville. We wouldn't be able to visit any of the places we'd read about.
Back at the boat we learned that some of our new friends had checked out the same day but with a different official and in the absence of the “big shot” were given five days to make the same trip. Others intended to “just do it anyway”. We were determined to reach Charlottesville but as guests in their country we would follow the “rules”.
Leaving at the same time as one of the other boats we found making headway as difficult as expected. We continued on as they turned into Courtland Bay where the anchorage and restaurants of Plymouth awaited them. Hours later and only a few miles up the coast we pulled into Castara Bay. We'd had it. Continuing on through the night would be insane. After sleeping, but without getting off the boat, we continued on in the morning.
Arriving in Charlottesville we pumped up the dingy and headed for shore to check in. With chips on all four shoulders we were prepared for the worst. The friendly welcome we received from the officials was nearly as unexpected as the negative one at Scarborough. The local people were charming, although at times I felt as though I must have FREE BEER written on my forehead! We made many friends during our two week stay. Our mask carved from a calabash by Maurice and our CD of songs played and sung by Squeezy are two new treasured souvenirs added to our collection.
Continuing on to Trinidad we once again followed instructions sailing past all the beautiful bays along the north shore of Tobago. Arriving in Chagaramus and dropping the hook among at least a hundred boats already at anchor we could not believe the recklessness of the local skiffs. Launching them one after another from a huge dry storage facility they would roar through the anchorage at full speed. These were not only the local fishermen but also expensive boats with big outboard motors and whole families on board. As the boats in the anchorage were continuously rocked we wondered where the authorities could be? Were there no laws? When the coast guard finally arrived it was in grand style. A half dozen of them in an open boat with THREE, two hundred plus horsepower, outboard motors! Roaring full speed through the anchorage they passed our boat knocking us on our beam ends and completely swamping our dingy. They would do this every couple of days when coming in for fuel. I must admit this insane behavior was infectious and I was soon speeding around in our dingy as fast as the little eight horsepower outboard would push us and wishing we had a nine point eight.
We quickly learned that Chagaramus is a massive boat yard/storage facility. Just south of the hurricane zone hundreds of yachts are hauled there annually to sit out the dangerous season. When the owners return five or six months later their boats are all polished or painted and ready to go. Although not a good cruising destination every service was available so we decided to take advantage and have some upholstery and canvas work done. No bargain, but the work was done well and very quickly. Hauling the boat out of the water we escaped the speeding skiffs and were able to polish the oil sludge from the hull sides. Our new cruiser friends from Tobago were there and we did manage to have a good time.
As soon as the boat went back in the water we were on our way. After two months in Tobago and Trinidad our nerves were shot. We couldn't wait to get to Isla Margarita, Venezuela. Once again reading the Doyle guide it sounded wonderful and with a name like Margarita we thought it had to be good.
In Trinidad we'd been continuously warned of crime. We were advised to stay at least thirty miles offshore when traveling to avoid pirates. It seemed a bit paranoid but this longer route would take us by Los Testigos Islands. Like most other boats we sailed over night with our lights off and radar on. In Los Testigos we relaxed for the allowed two days. The officials were very friendly and we had fun with our horrible Spanish.
Arriving in Isla Margarita we joined another hundred boats already at anchor off the large city of Porlamar. Our daughter and son in law planned to fly in and spend a week with us and it looked like the perfect place. We were so glad they hadn't come to Trinidad as originally planned. Once again, though, we were shocked as the local boats started roaring full speed through the anchorage. The skiffs were more traditional and made of wood but they were going just as fast and coming even closer than those in Trinidad.
The morning of our third day at Isla Margarita we found our outboard motor had been stolen from our dingy. Having been warned, we'd locked both the dingy and motor to the stern rail. The lock had been cut. Not satisfied with our motor they had also taken our oars leaving us with no way to reach shore.
Calling a more locally experienced acquaintance on the VHF radio for advice on how to contact the police triggered an exchange between the long timers in the anchorage. The gist? One, it was our fault our lock had been cut and our motor stolen because we hadn't lifted the dingy out of the water and two, we could report it to the police but there was “zero chance” of our getting it back.
The topic suddenly changed, a cruising couple in their dingy had just been run down by one of the speeding local boats. He (the cruiser) was killed. The following day as all the yachts lowered their flags to half mast dozens of local skiffs, rather than slowing down a bit, terrorized the anchorage. Charging, often two or three at once, full speed at a yacht they would turn only at the last second missing by inches. They were delighted if they could throw water into our dingies and some made a sport of trying to reach out and touch them as they sped by. This went on from morning till night as the operators grew more daring (intoxicated?) and the police boat sat tied to the dock, never moving.
Still dealing with our relatively petty problems, a fellow cruiser generously offered to loan us a pair of oars and we cautiously headed for shore. Halfway in we realized the thieves had also taken our shoes. With bare feet we found the police and reported our theft. Next we contacted our daughter and in spite of months of planning told her not to come to Isla Margarita.
We were told that the day of terror had been a holiday and the local people always go crazy on holidays. What special day had stirred up so much insanity? Children's Day!
To our dismay we have found that virtually everyone here has been a victim. One couple we met had gone to shore for a pot luck. Returning to their boat their life raft and fenders were missing. The nice guy who brought us the oars had recently been pistol whipped, tied up and then had the gun held to his head as his boat was ransacked. Outboard motor season is open year round.
The attitudes held and comments made by many of the cruisers here are also disturbing. We are shocked by the tendency of some cruisers to blame the victims. They cut our lock and stole our property and it's our fault because we failed to suspend it from the mast top. Come on, this thinking is as archaic as blaming the woman for her rape because of the clothes she was wearing.
Most travel in tandem with lights off while staying far from shore. Making landfall they anchor in large groups, everyone trying to get in the center, then stow all loose gear below and lift their dingies out of the water before locking themselves in for the night. Their slogan? “Lift It and Lock It or Lose It”. Then they tell us “it's this way everywhere”.
In the past five years we have visited twenty countries. To our knowledge it's not this way anywhere else. Every place we've visited even single handers, including females, roam freely. When cruisers lift their dingies it's usually to keep the bottom clean and many sleep in their cockpits under the stars.
Our best defense is our windless. Fortunately we have the option of taking our homes and money and leaving. The world is full of really great places.
Venezuela (almost)
July 13, 2008
Buenos Dias Amigos,
We have arrived at Los Testigos, Venezuela! Muy bueno! It's a very small group of islands off the coast and we have permission from the Armada Escuadra to stay for dos dias on our way to Isla Margarita, where we will officially check into the country. It was great fun to use some of our very limited Espanol to fill out the simple form on arrival. Senor Salas, who filled out the form with us, was muy amable y guapo! The weather here is very pleasant. Cool breeze, hot sun, no rain....we love it!
It was an overnight sail from Trinidad. We had good winds and strong current in our favor for the first half, and then the winds calmed down and we had to motor the second half yet still had that current pushing us along at top speed. 110 miles in only 17 hours! That's almost 6.5 knot average! Magnifico! Jim caught a nice mahi mahi on the way and had to horse him in on top of the water because of the speed. We filled his gills with alcohol while he was still along side, to make sure he was plenty drunk before joining us on board.
Now, after our delicious fish dinner and good nights sleep, we plan to use our limited time here to check out the village on Isla Iguana and, as usual, there's a few things on board that need tending to. Isla Margarita is fifty miles further southwest and if the current and good winds continue, as they should in this part of the world, it should take about nine hours.
It's been so long since we've written and in the meantime our computer crashed and we lost all our stuff, so we really don't know where we left off with anyone. We sent a cd of pictures home from Trinidad for the website but they've gotten lost in transit and we'll have to resend if they don't show up soon. We know the last email for our website was from Tobago before we sailed down to Trinidad. Hmmmm....Trinidad. In the immortal words of Moms Mabely "If you don't have something good to say, don't say anything....we left Trinidad, GOOD!"
I kind of forgot to let them know that we had received them."
Take care of yourselves and we'll be in touch soon,
Jim and Barb
S/V SpanishStroll